How to waste a lot of money on birds...
I put on a photography exhibition last year, and I had 15 shots I took in Kenya, Spitsbergen and India. I’d gone to Kenya to see the Big Five, to Spitsbergen to see the polar bears and to India to see the tigers, and I had plenty of good pictures, but they didn’t have any of those animals in them! It was a bit like that on my Antarctic trip. The one photograph on my shot list that I didn’t want to miss was of thousands of king penguins on Salisbury Plain in South Georgia. However, we were weathered out and then didn’t get there until the light was fading fast, so I didn’t get the shot. However, I did end up with five shots I was very happy with and nearly 400 that I can sell.
When people ask me how I got a particular shot or what my settings were, I usually make the old photographer’s joke: “It's f/11 and be there…!” Just ‘being there’ is a big part of wildlife photography, and the Antarctic is certainly the place to be for seals, birds and penguins. Lots of penguins!
The trip was a cruise on the Sea Explorer 1 laid on by Polar Latitudes, and I booked it through Audley Travel. The itinerary started in Ushuaia, at the foot of Argentina, where we spent one night in a hotel and woke up to the most glorious sunrise. What a great way to start the day!
The itinerary lasted from 31 January to 18 February 2016 and took in the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and the Antarctic peninsula. I had booked it only a few weeks earlier, and I was lucky enough to have the very last cabin all to myself. (History does not record how many people turned down the chance to be my roommate!) I was told it was going to be a ‘luxury’ cruise, and the quality of accommodation, food and service was certainly excellent throughout. There was one particular duck salad that melted in the mouth! Our regular routine involved an early morning wake-up call from our Expedition Leader Hayley, then a buffet breakfast in the dining room on Deck 2, followed by a Zodiac cruise or ‘wet landing’ in the morning, a buffet lunch, another excursion and then a recap and briefing in the main lounge before dinner in the evening. However, that was only on days when we were within sight of land. On the other days, we had to make do with lectures from the expedition team. They were all very knowledgeable, but there were only so many times I wanted to hear about Shackleton’s adventures or learn about Antarctic rock formations! After a safety briefing and lifeboat drill, our first port of call was the Falklands - two days’ sail away! When the ‘detailed itinerary’ for the trip just says ‘a day at sea’, you know you not going to take too many pictures. I had to make do with trying to perfect the ‘slow pan’, taking hundreds of shots of the albatrosses and petrels following the ship with very little to show for it…
A day at sea…!
When we finally arrived in West Falkland, it was a gorgeous sunny day with no wind. A promising start, but I had first night nerves. I always feel nervous about taking pictures for the first time in a new place. It was the same before going to the Taj Mahal - it was the trip of a lifetime, and I didn't want to screw it up!
For our first Zodiac landing, we were split up into different groups named after penguins: blue, king, gentoo and macaroni. I put my name down for ‘king’ to join up with Phil and Judy, a nice couple I’d briefly met at the airport and then chatted to over various meals. Phil had a similar background to me and wanted to learn about photography, so I was happy to chat away about that. He was also a Watford fan, but the less said about that the better…!
We had a great morning on Saunders Island (apart from one of the staff being a little bit too officious), and we saw two penguin rookeries and an albatross nesting site on a rather steep slope leading to a cliff. One of the naturalists ‘Snowy’ took me down, but I had to crawl back on my hands and knees - it was a bit scary! The highlight was seeing a couple of king penguins looking after their chicks. Once we were all back, we had a buffet lunch, and I quickly went back to my cabin to import my photos. That was my regular routine after that. I always try to keep up-to-date when it comes to rating and editing the pictures I take, and there was usually plenty of time in the early hours before breakfast.
After lunch, we landed on West Point Island, where we saw a spectacular colony of black-browed albatrosses and their chicks interspersed with rockhopper penguins. All the birds were so close. At one point, the ‘voyage photographer’ Adam tapped me on the shoulder and I turned round to find an albatross perched less than a foot away!
After the usual recap, I had dinner and then drinks with Phil and Judy and showed them a slideshow of my favourite photos and some I’d taken in the Galapagos.
I went to bed with the cruel sea outside my window; I woke up with two red telephone boxes instead! As someone once almost said, "Stanley, I presume…”
We went on a worthless expedition to Gypsy Bay, where the wind was blowing at 50 knots and we weren't even allowed on to the beach because of possible mines left by the Argies! I did see two Magellanic penguins in a burrow, but I went back to the ship as quickly as I could. I wanted to walk around Stanley, see the governor’s mansion and maybe have a pint in The Globe, but the weather was so miserable I worked on my photos instead.
I was only interrupted when someone started cleaning my window from the outside...!
I had lunch on board - along with the only other 14 sensible people! - and then 'grazed' al afternoon. Food and drink is far too easy to get hold of when you have nothing else to do...
After the usual briefing (when Hayley confirmed that there would be a photography competition), I had dinner with Phil and Judy, a talkative and well travelled American called Tracy and an English teacher. Phil educated Tracy on our political system before the teacher and I almost got into an argument about the role of government. That's why you should never discuss politics at the dinner table!
I had set my alarm for 0530, but even that was too late to capture any colour in the sky before dawn, so I worked on my photos - knocking out a couple that didn't quite make the grade - and read The Numbers Game, a book about sporting analytics. I then went to the 'Club' on Deck 4 for an early breakfast and then a Lord of the Rings-style 'second breakfast' of yoghurt and a smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel in the dining room straight afterwards!
Hayley did her usual wake-up call at 0630 and announced that we had done 150 nautical miles overnight, with 1.5-2.5m swells and a 20kt following wind - perfect conditions, especially as it was a 'tropical' 14° outside!
We were being followed by another cruise ship, the Academic Joffe, and seeing it astern reminded me of the film of Patrick O'Brian's Master & Commander: The Far Side of the World.
We were going to be at sea for the following two days, so they scheduled several lectures to entertain us: a guide to knowing your camera by Adam; a talk about why Antarctica is so cold, dark and windy by Jim; an analysis of Southern Ocean population dynamics by Elke; and a comic talk about sailors' superstitions by Rickard.
I had drinks and dinner with Phil and Judy again at the Club and then in the restaurant. It was mostly memorable for the rather large swell that resulted in the ship rolling so violently that the starboard portholes on deck two were underwater and had to be closed after the meal. I then looked through a few slow pan shots if taken earlier. It's always a hit and miss affair - I once took 1,504 slow pan shots in the Arctic and kept only four! - and this time I even accidentally deleted the only half-decent one!
We all had to put the clocks forward that night prior to landing on South Georgia.
I think the weather forecast must have been wrong. That was definitely more than 2.5m of swell! Try 10m! Sleeping is very difficult when you don't know if the ship is going to right itself every time it rolls? I had an early breakfast and went on deck to try and take some slow pan shots of the birds, but I only lasted two minutes as the deck was rolling so much! They closed Deck 3 while I was out there...
I had breakfast with Phil and Judy then sat with them at Snowy's talk on the birds of South Georgia and Pablo's talk on a whaler's story.
After lunch, I lent Phil my Mac to work on his photos, and then we all had to watch a briefing video on South Georgia and go through 'biosecurity', which meant getting all our outer layers checked for organic matter and vacuumed by the staff.
After the usual recap and briefing, I had dinner and then went up to Phil and Judy's room for a glass of wine once the staff had retired.
As I feared, our landing at Salisbury Plain was called off in 50-knot winds. We tried to go to another landing place, but we eventually had to settle for a talk by Jim on weather forecasting. Too bad. It was supposed to be the highlight of the entire trip, and I didn’t know if we’d have a chance to go back.
After lunch, Hayley announced the Prion Island trip was going ahead as planned. We saw lots of cute fur seals and a few wandering albatrosses, the bird with the largest wingspan in the world at 3.6m.
We then had an early dinner so that we could squeeze in a late visit to Salisbury Plain. It was great to be able to go, but our group was drawn last, so the light was fading by the time we got there. There were tons of fur seals and king penguins, but it was too dark to take many good photos. Disappointing.
I worked on the day's photos back in my room, closing the curtains to prevent any bird strikes....!
Hayley started off with a very downbeat message this morning. We were supposed to be having a wet landing in Fortuna Bay, but the wind was 50kts, gusting up to 70kts, so that wasn’t possible. Instead, we had a talk from Peter on Sir Ernest Shackleton, although even he didn't know how the party on the James Caird had ended up on the wrong side of South Georgia and why they hadn't just sailed round to the other side! We then saw a film called South with Shackleton. Elke told us over the PA that we'd passed a minke whale and then a humpback, but I couldn't see them. I know about minke whales, but ‘Elke whales’ are the ones too far away to photograph…
I lent Phil my laptop, so I just read Britain Today - a digest of UK news available on board - and The Numbers Game on my iPhone.
Later on, we went for an impromptu Zodiac cruise for a couple of hours. We saw a glacier, a fur seal, a few elephant seals on the beach and a few snow petrels. Otherwise, it was just a sunny cruise on a nice calm bit of water.
After breakfast, we had a wet landing in St Andrew's Bay, which has the largest concentration of king penguins in the world. Unfortunately, we landed in the wrong spot, so I couldn't get a picture of the 150,000 pairs in the main rookery. Grrr...
After a quick lunch on my own, I joined the photographers on a trip to Grytviken led by Adam, the Voyage Photographer. We made a toast to Shackleton at his graveside and threw the dregs of our Jameson's whiskey over it, after Peter had given a kind of toast. He also told the story of a rather flamboyant Spanish woman who had read the inscription out loud to the group but had mistaken ‘explorer’ for 'exploded’: "So that's how he died, then..."
I then set out to take pictures. Unfortunately, Adam's pace was rather slow, so I broke off to look at an old boat, which turned out to be guarded by some very territorial fur seals! There were a couple of old whalers at the whaling station, plus all the old equipment, so I broke out my 18-35mm lens and went to town. It was a gorgeous day, clear and calm, and the late afternoon sunlight was fantastic.
I took the last Zodiac back to the boat and then had a barbecue with the usual crew on Deck 5. Our ship entertainer Randy started to play some toe-curlingly bad covers, so I made my excuses and escaped to work on my photos.
After a quick breakfast with the gang, I returned to finish rating my photos. I did it just in time for the first outing to Gold Harbour. There were lots of penguins and elephant and fur seals - so many, in fact, that we couldn't really move around much. The penguins were particularly curious, as usual, and they would walk up to within a couple of feet of me as I was taking pictures.
After a quick lunch on my own, our Cooper Bay landing was cancelled due to high winds (37-40kts), but we went to the beautiful Drygalski Fjord instead and some people had a Zodiac cruise. I bowed out, as there wasn't much chance of wildlife, but Tracy and Phil showed me their pictures of a leopard seal! Not good...
After I'd been through a few of Tracy's photos, we all had dinner together and then a few glasses of wine in Phil and Judy's cabin.
I woke early to work on my photos, had a quick breakfast and then carried on. I took a break to hear Jim talk about ice as if it were a rock - bizarrely! - and then went back to my laptop, skipping the chance of a tour of the bridge. I then went to Snowy's talk on penguins before having lunch. I calledPhil, but he had food poisoning or something.
The ship doctor’s daughter Livia played some songs on the guitar at around 1430, and I lent my laptop to Phil and Tracy.
It was an unusually amusing recap and briefing. Rickard told us about the lives of the whalers, who spent most of their lives at sea away from their wives and families. One captain of a whaler worked for 37 years and only spent 4 years 8 months under his own roof. The only means of communication was letters, but the post system was very unreliable. He told the story of a couple from Nantucket called Anna and Lucas through their letters to each other:
Anna: Dear Lucas, where did you put the axe?
Lucas (14 months later): Dear Anna, why do you need the axe?
Anna (6 months later): Dear Lucas, I've found the axe. Where's the hammer?
I had dinner with the usual crew and then put the clocks back an hour.
I woke up at 0130 with the ship pitching violently. Some of the waves were apparently 10 metres! It's all very well to smile as you look out and see the bow wave, but this was very disturbing!
I was coming down with a cold, and I'd used up all my Sudafed, so I asked Dr Tom for some drugs.
Phil and Judy finally brought down my laptop, and we had lunch together. Afterwards, I went up to their room. We had a pub quiz using an iPhone app, and then Tracy came in, and we chose Phil's photo competition entries. We then went down to see Jim's talk on Antarctic geoscience - until I fell asleep and had to go to my cabin!
Daniel then went through the difference between swell (waves caused by distant winds), seas (waves caused by local wind) and fetch (the uninterrupted length of sea where the waves develop), Peter talked about Elephant Island and Elke about phytoplankton. Hmm…
I had a decent night's sleep for a change, due to the calmer conditions. I added vignettes to most of my wildlife shots and then had breakfast. I took a risk then by cleaning my D810 sensor with a wipe I'd already used, but it seemed to work. On the one hand, don't want to scratch it; on the other, I don't want to have to clone out a sensor spot on every single shot I take!
We had another biosecurity check and then had a very successful Zodiac cruise. We went to Point Wild on Elephant Island, where the Shackleton party had camped for four months, and saw a leopard seal catch and eat a penguin! It also spent a few minutes coming very close to our boat, and it was amazing to see it at such close quarters. On our way back, we saw a glacier calve with one of our Zodiacs in the foreground. Too bad I was on the wrong side of the boat to get the shot…!
After a quick lunch with Tracy, I managed to screw up by leaving marks on the mirror while ‘cleaning’ the inside my camera with a brush not designed for the job. That'll teach me for leaving my dust blower behind!
I worked on my photos then read my book for a while before the usual recap and briefing, then dinner with the gang. Disturbingly, my cabin door was open when I came back. I must've tried to slam it, I suppose. I was a bit worried, but my cameras and all my equipment were still there, so that was a relief.
Seven out of seven! After breakfast, I set foot onAntarctica for the very first time, completing my set of continents. Hurrah! All the staff were having a go at me for getting too close to the adélie penguins, and one of the guests was even a bit snotty with me when I accidentally walked in front of her while she was taking a picture. I had a chat with Phil and Judy, and that made me feel better again...!
I somehow lost my lens hood on my wide-angle lens, but it turned up at reception under Lost Property. Phew...!
I worked on today's photos until lunchtime, when I ate with Tracy and a nice American couple called David and Mardi.
Our afternoon excursion was cancelled at the last minute due to all the brash ice surrounding the ship, so Tracy forced me to look at a ‘cute’ penguin book called Antarctic Antics, by Judy Sierra:
"To keep myself up off the ice,
I find my father's feet are nice.
I snuggle in his belly fluff,
And that's how I stay warm enough."
I had dinner with the usual crew, and then we had a staff quiz. We were given a list of crazy facts about all 14 of them, and we had to guess who had done what. I retired early…
Phil and Judy filled me in over breakfast, which was chiefly remarkable for the customer service. I ordered French toast and fruit sauce, but my waiter knows I always make myself a smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel. As there was no smoked salmon on the table, he brought me a plate with a bagel, smoked salmon, cream cheese and even half a lemon - as they usually only have thin slices at the buffet. Very impressive! I spoke to Adam in the corridor about doing a talk together on photography. He liked the idea of choosing five of each other's pictures and taking about them, so we'll get half an hour to do that on the voyage home to Ushuaia.
We had a wet landing in Neko Harbour this morning. I walked straight past all the penguins and up to a rocky bluff with a view of a glacier. It looked like it would calve at any moment, but it never did. However, I got a few shots of Phil and other hikers on the ridge line.
I was on the first Zodiac back, so I had a hot chocolate and imported my photos.
We had a barbecue again on Deck 5 for lunch, and I sat with Phil and Judy again. Afterwards, I worked in my photos and read my Spenser novel until we hit an iceberg. Fortunately, it was only a small one...!
We were having the world's most boring Zodiac ride in the afternoon when an enormous chunk of ice calves from one of the glaciers. Too bad it looked nowhere near as spectacular as a photograph.
I had dinner with my friends and then spent an hour whale watching with Phil. We did actually see a few flukes, but they were a long way away.
I ended up in the bar, where I talked to Tracy about her career crisis until she changed the subject and tried to set me up with one of the Dutch girls!
Hayley woke us up at 0609 today for an early Zodiac ride to Cierva Cove. I had the choice of 90 minutes, 45 minutes or a cup of coffee in the Club. Phil was keen to see whales, but I didn't think that was likely. However, it was our last cruise, so I decided to do the long one with him and Judy. We didn't see any whales, funnily enough, but I did get a good shot of a penguin jumping into the water. I know I'm lazy about getting out there sometimes, so I think I made the right decision in the end.
After lunch with the gang, we were supposed to have a wet landing, but it was cancelled due to the swell, so we all had a team photo on Deck 5 instead. When all the Dutch group knelt down in the front row, someone said: "Finally, we've got them on their knees!"
As we started our crossing of the Drake Passage (or Cape Horn to you and me), the four of us went up to Phil and Judy's room to pick my competition entries. I only got one of my original choices! Phil and I went down to upload them and look at the other entries, but there was nothing there, so we went to the Club and had a gin and tonic with some of the black ice Heather had found this afternoon. It’s spent 30,000 years at the bottom of a glacier, so it’s had all the air squeezed out of it, which makes it incredibly clear. It also lasts a long time, so I time it with astopwatch: after 36 minutes, it was still going strong!
After dinner with the usual crew, Adam gave a funny bar talk about his career highlights and sang a humorous song about how to 'woo a lady'. I gave him my pictures for our talk, but he didn't have anything for me, and our talk wasn't on the schedule for tomorrow, so I went to bed...
This was supposed to be the morning when we all had a lie in, but I woke up at 0530 as usual. After tossing and turning in bed and then doing the crossword for a bit, I went to the 'early bird' breakfast in the Club, where I had a nice chat with Sally. We then had proper breakfast together in the dining room with her husband Giuseppe, who kindly allowed me to call him Pepe!
I didn't fancy listening to Peter or Pablo talk, so I sat amidships to avoid the swell and read my Spenser novel. Adam gave me 15 of his photos, but Tracy was still using my laptop, so I couldn’t choose the best ones yet.
After lunch with the gang, I spoke to Adam, and we arranged our talk for 1430. It went pretty well, and it was nice to be able to show off my work - even though everyone seems to have a different idea of what my best pictures are!
I showed Henry and his wife a slideshow after the talk and then had a chat with Phil before the usual recap. These things are getting pretty dull and incomprehensible, so I just read my book and listened with half an ear.
We had dinner with a British couple, and then I went to my cabin to copy Phil and Tracy's pictures on to a memory stick.
I thought it was going to be a long night going across a bumpy Drake Passage, but I finally managed to get to sleep and woke up at 0700. I had breakfast with the gang, and then Hayley announced we were passing Cape Horn, so we took a look. It wasn't particularly exciting, but it was nice to tick the box. Phil later told me I’d been looking at the ‘wrong’ Cape Horn, but it all looks the same…!
After lunch with the gang, where we were joined by Gayle and her husband, there was an announcement of whales and then even orcas on the starboard beam. (They were a long way away and probably sei whales.)
We went up to Phil and Judy's room to drink wine, and we even saw a few dolphins. The recap was led by Hayley, who revealed that we'd driven 3,536Nm on our trip, drunk 491 cans of beer, 739 bottles of wine, 10 bottles of gin and 9 of whisky.
In the photo competition, I won a Helly Hansen beanie for the best landscape shot of an iceberg at sunrise! I made the top five in every category apart from 'funny and creative', and Phil made three. We then went up to the bar for a gin and tonic, although there was no more black ice. Shame…
I met Irina on the way to dinner, so I bought a bottle of Dom Perignon for our table. There was a receiving line consisting of all the staff, so it took a while to sit down. Phil and Judy and Tracy were at our table, and we were fortunately joined by Giuseppe and Sally. After dinner, we all trooped into the lounge to watch Adam's video of the whole trip. It was pretty good and made me think I should learn how to do something similar for my friends back home. I asked him which software he'd used and then completely forgot what he'd told me! Something Pro...
We were all woken by Hayley on the PA at 0630 in time for breakfast at 0700. I ate with Phil, Judy and Tracy, and then we were called for our busto the airport. Tracy was on the next bus, so we said a quick goodbye. We might be having dinner tonight in Buenos Aires. Phil and Judy were on the early flight, so we said goodbye at the gate.
When I arrived at the Hotel Pulitzer - the same place as if stayed last month - I went through my email backlog and then went out to dinner at Don Julio's. I didn't hear from Tracy, so I had to eat alone, but I didn't mind that. I had a chorizo, melted provolone and sun-dried tomato starter followed by the fillet steak with grilled vegetables and something called a suspiro porteño, which was a mish-mash of dulce de leche cream, brownie and coconut and hazel meringue. The butter was a little hard, they didn't immediately give me a clean plate for my starter, there was no sauce with the steak and the double espresso was dreadful, but the main problem with eating outside on a balmy night was the cyclists cutting right through the restaurant! By the way, BA is a small town. I know this because one of the guys at the next door table was the same guy I'd sat next to on the plane!
I did some electronic chores, published a couple of blog posts on Iguazu and Buenos Aires, upload my favourite shots to my website. The weather had changed overnight from blue skies and boiling sunshine to thunder, lightning and rain! I took a taxi and met Tracy for lunch at a place called Halina Café in Palermo. I had to get some cash out on the way, having so sensibly got rid of my last pesos at the restaurant last night, and I left my card in the machine! And I was doing so well…Anyway, we had a nice lunch, swapping stories about the cruise and Tracy’s current digs, and then we shared a cab back to the hotel. Tracy went off to get her phone fixed, and I packed for the flight home. My car picked me up at 1430 and took me to the airport, where I caught my flight to London via São Paulo - or San Pablo if ever you find yourself in an Argentine airport searching desperately for your flight!
My Antarctic expedition was over, and I enjoyed it. I was lucky with the weather, the people I met and the chance to get up close and personal with a leopard seal! The staff were knowledgeable, the food and accommodation were perfectly good, and, most importantly, I managed to take a few good pictures! It’s an expensive voyage, and the only reason I was able to afford it was that a property deal fell through and the money for the deposit was burning a hole in my pocket (!), but that’s the very definition of the trip of a lifetime, isn’t it? It’s a journey we take only once, and probably against our better judgment, but I’d much rather regret the things I’ve done than the things I haven’t...
Antarctic Fur Seal, Arctocephalus gazella
Antarctic Minke Whale, Balaenoptera bonaerensis
Blue Whale, Balaenoptera musculus
Commerson's Dolphin, Cephalorhynchus commersonii
Crabeater Seal, Lobodon carcinophaga
Fin Whale, Balaenoptera physalus
Hourglass Dolphin, Lagenorrhynchus cruciger
Humpback Whale, Megaptera novaeangliae
Leopard Seal, Hydrurga leptonyx
Peale's Dolphin, Lagenorrhynchus australis
Sei Whale, Balaenoptera borealis
South American Fur Seal, Arctocephalus australis
South American Sea Lion, Otaria flavescens
Southern Elephant Seal, Mirounga leonina
Southern Right Whale, Eubalaena australis
Weddell Seal, Leptonychotes weddellii
Adelie Penguin, Pygoscelis adeliae
Antarctic Petrel, Thalassoica antarctica
Antarctic Prion, Pachyptila desolata
Antarctic Shag, Phalacrocroax bransfieldensis
Antarctic Tern, Sterna vittata
Arctic Tern, Sterna paradisea
Atlantic Petrel, Pterodroma incerta
Black-bellied Storm-petrel, Fregetta tropica
Black-browed Albatross, Thalassarche melanophris
Black-chinned Siskin, Carduelis barbata
Black-throated Finch, Melanodera melanodera
Blackish Cinclodes, Cinclodes antarcticus
Blackish Oystercatcher, Haematopus ater
Blue Petrel, Halobaena caerulea
Brown Skua, Catharacta lonnbergi
Cape Petrel, Daption capense
Chilean Skua, Catharacta chilensis
Chinstrap Penguin, Pygoscelis antarctica
Common Diving-petrel, Pelecanoides urinatrix
Crested Duck, Lophonetta specularioides
Dark-faced Ground Tyrant, Muscisaxicola maclovianus
Dolphin Gull, Larus scoresbii
Falkland Pipit, Anthus correndera
Falkland Skua, Catharacta antarctica
Falkland Steamer Duck, Tachyeres brachypterus
Falkland Thrush, Turdus falcklandii
Gentoo Penguin, Pygoscelis papua
Grey-headed Albatross, Thalassarche chrysostoma
House Sparrow, Passer domesticus
Imperial Shag, Phalacrocorax atriceps
Kelp Goose, Chloephaga hybrida
Kelp Gull, Larus dominicanus
King Penguin, Aptenodytes patagonicus
Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Phoebetria palpebrata
Long-tailed Meadowlark, Sturnella loyca
Macaroni Penguin, Eudyptes chrysolophus
Magellanic Oystercatcher, Haematopus leucopodus
Magellanic Penguin, Spheniscus magellanicus
Magellanic Snipe, Gallinago paraguaiae
Northern Giant Petrel, Macronectes halli
Rock Shag, Phalacrocorax magellanicus
Rockhopper Penguin, Eudyptes chrysochrome
Royal Albatross, Diomedea epomorphora
Ruddy-headed Goose, Chloephaga rubidiceps
Slender-billed Prion, Pachyptila belcheri
Snow Petrel, Pagodroma nivea
Snowy Sheathbill, Chionis alba
Soft-plumaged Petrel, Pterodroma mollis
Sooty Shearwater, Puffinis griseus
South American Tern, Sterna hirundinacea
South Georgia Pintail, Anas georgica
South Georgia Pipit, Anthus antarcticus
South Georgia Shag, Phalacrocorax georgianus
South Georgian Diving-petrel, Pelecanoides georgicus
South Polar Skua, Catharacta maccormicki
Southern Fulmar, Fulmarus glacialoides
Southern Giant Petrel, Macronectes giganteus
Striated Caracara, Phalcoboenus australis
Turkey Vulture, Cathartes aura
Upland Goose, Chloephaga picta
Wandering Albatross, Diomedea exulans
White-chinned Petrel, Procellaria aequinoctialis
White-rumped Sandpiper, Calidris fuscicollis
Wilson's Storm-petrel, Oceanites oceanicus
Yellow-billed Teal, Anas flavirostris