I’ve visited Botswana, Kenya, Namibia, Rwanda, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia and Zimbabwe on safari and worked as the Resident Photographer for four months at various camps in Tanzania and Kenya.
Here’s a quick overview of the major safari locations in Africa, including a fact file for each country and my own personal impressions of each country if I’ve been there myself.
Botswana
If you like elephants and water, Botswana is the place for you. It has 130,000 of the 415,000 African elephants left in the world, and Chobe National Park is where the population is at its densest.
The Chobe River also allows you the opportunity to see them crossing it, bathing in it and play fighting in it as well as providing a great backdrop for any kind of wildlife shots, particularly at sunset.
I went there for two weeks in 2016 on a private mobile safari, visiting all the major attractions in the north of the country, including the Okavango Delta, Moremi and Chobe, and I came back with one my favourite shots of an elephant giving itself a dust bath on the Chobe riverbank (see above).
When it comes to the rest of the Big Five, there are plenty of lions, but you’ll struggle to see rhinos, leopards or cheetahs. However, you’ll still be able to see all the other common safari animals, including abundant hippo, buffalo, zebra, wildebeest and giraffe. If you want to read up on any species, there are a few fact files out there on the web. One good one on giraffes is produced by Park Spotter Africa.
Fact file
Capital: Gaborone
Currency: Botswana pula
Population: 2.254 million (2018)
Area: 581,730 km² (224,610 sq mi)
Official language(s): English, Setswana
Time zone: UTC+2 (Central Africa Time)
Entry requirements for UK citizens (excluding current COVID-19 restrictions): No visa is required for stays of up to 90 days, but passports should be valid for a minimum period of six months from the date of entry.
Malaria risk: Low in south, high in north. Must take anti-malarials if going to Okavango, Chobe etc.
Vaccinations: A certificate of yellow fever vaccination is required from travellers aged one year or over arriving from or having transited through countries with risk of yellow fever transmission. Vaccinations against hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid are also recommended, while some travellers may benefit from cholera, hepatitis B, rabies and tuberculosis shots.
Power supply: Power plugs and sockets are of type D, G and M, so appliances with UK plug type won’t need an adaptor if the sockets are of type G. The standard voltage is 230 V and the standard frequency is 50 Hz, as in the UK.
Driving side: Left
Calling code: +267
Airports: Sir Seretse Khama International Airport in Gaborone (GBE), Maun Airport (MUB) and Kasane Airport (BBK)
Best time to go: The best time to visit is from May to September, during the dry season and winter, resulting in more moderate temperatures. In addition, the Okavango is flooded from June to October. Wildlife viewing is good year-round, but this can differ for some parks.
Major attractions: Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park, Moremi Game Reserve, Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, Nxai Pan National Park
Animals: Elephant, giraffe, hippo, buffalo, zebra and wildebeest are abundant; lion and hyena are common; leopard, cheetah and wild dog are occasional; black and white rhino are very rare.
Birds: 550+ species, migratory birds from October to April
Cost: Highest, due to the restricted amount of visitors and concession fees that lodges pay to operate in the private reserves. Assume $500-650 per person per night for four-star comfort, $650-1,150 for four-star luxury and $1,200-2,400 for five-star luxury (2020 prices).
Kenya
I went to Kenya on my very first safari in 2013, so it has a special place in my affections. It was also where I saw five cheetah kills in a week during a trip to Kicheche Bush Camp in the Masai Mara, which was one of the highlights of my photographic career!
The Masai Mara is THE place to go, especially from July to October during the Great Migration when two million wildebeest, zebra, gazelle and eland enter Kenya from Tanzania.
The crossing of the Mara River is a particular highlight, but there are other national parks and reserves if you want to explore further afield.
Amboseli and Ol Pejeta have views of Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya, for instance, and Ol Pejeta is the place to see the very last two northern white rhinos.
Fact file
Capital: Nairobi
Currency: Kenyan shilling (KSH)
Population: 51.39 million (2018)
Area: 580,367 km² (224,081 sq mi)
Official language(s): English, Swahili
Time zone: UTC+3 (East Africa Time)
Entry requirements for UK citizens (excluding current COVID-19 restrictions): You need a visa to enter Kenya. You can either get a visa on arrival at the airport, or before you travel. You can apply for single entry and transit visas on the evisas website. You can also apply for these, and other types of visa, at the Kenya High Commission in London. For more information, see the website of the Kenya High Commission. Your passport should be valid for a minimum period of 6 months from the date of entry into Kenya. Make sure you have two blank pages in your passport on arrival.
Malaria risk: High throughout the year in the whole country, but low in Nairobi, the immediate surrounding areas, and the highlands (above 2500m) of Central, Eastern, Nyanza, Rift Valley and Western Provinces. Note that there can be a high risk in valleys of the highlands.
Vaccinations: A certificate of yellow fever vaccination is required from travellers aged one year or over arriving from or having transited through countries with risk of yellow fever transmission. Vaccinations against hepatitis A, polio, tetanus and typhoid are also recommended, while some travellers may benefit from cholera, hepatitis B, meningococcal disease, rabies and tuberculosis shots.
Power supply: Power plugs and sockets are of type G, so appliances with UK plug type won’t need an adaptor. The standard voltage is 240 V, and the standard frequency is 50 Hz, the same as in the UK.
Driving side: Left
Calling code: +254
Airports: Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (NBO) and Wilson Airport (WIL) in Nairobi
Best time to go: The best time to visit Kenya is during the dry season from late June to October (these are the best wildlife viewing months). The wildebeest migration usually reaches the Masai Mara in August and remains until October when they move back to the Serengeti in Tanzania. Wildlife viewing is good year-round, but this can differ for some parks. See below to learn when to visit which park.
Major attractions: Masai/Maasai Mara National Reserve (especially during the Great Migration), Amboseli National Reserve, Tsavo National Park, Samburu, Buffalo Springs, and Shaba National Reserves, Lake Nakuru National Park, Lake Naivasha, Nairobi National Park and the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, Mount Kenya National Park, Ol Pejeta Conservancy
Animals: Elephant, giraffe, hippo, buffalo, zebra and wildebeest are abundant; lion and hyena are common; leopard, cheetah and white rhino are occasional; black rhino and wild dog are very rare.
Birds: 1,100+ species, migratory birds from September to April
Cost: Low, especially on camping safaris, due to government policy to encourage tourism. Assume $350-600 per person per night for four-star comfort, $550-850 for four-star luxury and $1,000-1,450 for five-star luxury (2020 prices).
Namibia
Namibia is the most recent country I’ve visited, and I very much enjoyed my two weeks at Gabus Game Ranch and Etosha National Park.
The appeal of Namibia is the landscape. It’s very different from all the other major safari destinations in that it is barren and desertified. The population is only two million in an area measuring 300,000 square miles, which makes it the most sparsely populated country in the world.
Go to Namibia to take dramatic pictures of oryx casting shadows over the orange dunes in Sossusvlei or to see desert-adapted lions or elephants in Etosha.
You won’t see the abundance of wildlife that you get in the Masai Mara or the Serengeti, but the backdrop of the desert makes it well worthwhile.
Capital: Windhoek
Currency: Namibian dollar (NAD)
Population: 2,113,077 (2011)
Area: 825,615 km² (318,772 sq mi)
Official language(s): English
Time zone: UTC+2 (Central Africa Time)
Entry requirements for UK citizens (excluding current COVID-19 restrictions): British nationals can enter Namibia for a holiday or private visit of up to 90 days without a visa. However, you must check that you have been given permission to stay for the duration of your visit and given a correctly dated entry stamp as this will be checked on departure. Your passport should be valid for a minimum period of 6 months from the date of entry into Namibia and have at least one completely blank page for Namibian immigration to use.
Malaria risk: The risk is present throughout the year but highest during November to June in the north and north eastern regions of the country, including Omaheke. There is low to no risk of malaria in all other areas including the Skeleton Coast. Malaria precautions are essential.
Vaccinations: A certificate of yellow fever vaccination is required from travellers aged one year or over arriving from or having transited through countries with risk of yellow fever transmission. Vaccinations against hepatitis A, polio, tetanus and typhoid are also recommended, while some travellers may benefit from cholera, hepatitis B, meningococcal disease, rabies and tuberculosis shots.
Power supply: The power plugs and sockets are of type D and M, which means UK appliances will need an adaptor. The standard voltage is 220 V and the standard frequency is 50 Hz, as in the UK.
Driving side: Left
Calling code: +264
Airports: Hosea Kutako International Airport (WDH) in Windhoek
Best time to go: The best time to visit Namibia is in the Dry season from June to October, although it can be visited throughout the year. Wildlife viewing in all parks, but especially in Etosha, is best in the Dry season. The climate is generally dry and pleasant. Between December and March, some days will be humid and rain may follow, often in localized, afternoon thunderstorms. In the Wet season, animals move away from the waterholes and scatter around the park.
Major attractions: Sossusvlei, Etosha National Park, Damaraland, Caprivi, Kalahari, Kaokoland
Animals: Elephant, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, lion and cheetah are common; hippo, white and black rhino are occasional; buffalo, leopard and wild dog are rare.
Birds: 700+ species, migratory birds from September to April
Cost: Lowest. Assume $250-400 per person per night for four-star comfort, $500-550 for four-star luxury and $1,150-1,450 for five-star luxury (2020 prices).
Rwanda
When I went to Rwanda, it was part of a G Adventures trip called Gorillas and Masai Mara. We started off in Kenya and then drove across Uganda to get to Volcanoes National Park to see the gorillas.
I wanted to make the most of what will probably be a once-in-a-lifetime trip, so I booked an extra day and spent two hours with two different groups of gorillas.
I didn’t get many great shots, but it was a great experience just sitting with a family, watching them eat and groom one another.
In those days, a daily licence ‘only’ cost around $500, but it’s now rocketed to $1,500! That’s a bit excessive, especially as you can visit the same area from Uganda for less than half the price ($700 as of 1 July 2020)…
Capital: Kigali
Currency: Rwandan franc (RWF)
Population: 12,374,397 (2019)
Area: 26,338 km² (10,169 sq mi)
Official language(s): English, French, Kinyarwanda, Swahili
Time zone: UTC+2 (Central Africa Time)
Entry requirements for UK citizens (excluding current COVID-19 restrictions): You need a visa to enter Rwanda. Thirty-day tourist visas are free and available on arrival for citizens of country members of the Commonwealth, African Union or La Francophonie, including the UK. You can also choose to get a visa in advance at any Rwandan diplomatic mission or online. Further information about visa requirements is available from the Rwandan High Commission. Your passport should be valid for at least six months from the date of entry. You’ll need one blank page on your passport for entry stamps.
Malaria risk: The risk is high throughout the year in all areas. Malaria precautions are essential.
Vaccinations: A certificate of yellow fever vaccination is required from travellers aged one year or over arriving from or having transited through countries with risk of yellow fever transmission. Vaccinations against hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid are also recommended, while some travellers may benefit from cholera, hepatitis B, meningococcal disease, rabies and tuberculosis shots.
Power supply: For Rwanda there are two associated plug types, types C and J. Plug type C is the plug that has two round pins, and plug type J is the plug that has three round pins. UK appliances will need an adaptor. Rwanda operates on a 230V supply voltage and 50Hz.
Driving side: Right
Calling code: +250
Airports: Kigali International Airport (KGL), formerly known as Grégoire Kayibanda International Airport, but sometimes referred to as Kanombe International Airport
Best time to go: The best wildlife-viewing months in Rwanda are during the dry season, from June to September. The habitat of rainforests is very wet, so you can’t avoid rain completely, but walking in the forest is easier in the dry season.
Major attractions: Volcanoes National Park (also accessible from Uganda), Nyungwe Forest National Park, Akagera National Park
Animals: Gorilla, chimpanzee, hippo, buffalo and zebra are common; elephant and giraffe are occasional; white rhino, lion and leopard are rare. There are no black rhino, cheetah or wildebeest.
Birds: 690+ species, migratory birds from November to April
Cost: Lowest. Assume $250-400 per person per night for four-star comfort, $500-550 for four-star luxury and $1,150-1,450 for five-star luxury (2020 prices).
Tanzania
Tanzania and Kenya are in topographic terms two sides of the same coin. The Masai Mara and the Serengeti are basically the same region of Africa, and the only reason they’ve been given different names is that the international border runs between them.
As a result, you’ll see pretty much the same wildlife in both parks. The main difference is that you’ll see more of the Great Migration of wildebeest, zebra, gazelle and eland in Tanzania than you will in Kenya, where it only lasts from July to September at most.
During the other nine months, the herds of animals will be making their way in a giant clockwise circle around Tanzania, calving in the south and then making their way north to find fresh pasture before crossing the Mara River into Kenya and then heading back south across the border again.
The Mara River crossings can be spectacular as thousands of wildebeest throw themselves off the sand cliffs into the water and run the gamut of crocodiles when the make their way across, and they can be viewed from either Tanzania or Kenya.
However, it gets very busy, and the timing is very unpredictable, so don’t count on getting shots that will be good enough for National Geographic!
I went to the Mara River for a day to see the crossing, but our driver was too eager, and we ended up almost getting thrown out of the park by a Kenya Wildlife Service official.
Too bad. One day, though…
Capital: Dodoma (although Dar es Salaam is the largest city)
Currency: Tanzanian shilling (TZS)
Population: 56,313,438 (2018)
Area: 947,303 km² (365,756 sq mi)
Official language(s): Swahili, English, Arabic (in Zanzibar)
Time zone: UTC+3 (East Africa Time)
Entry requirements for UK citizens (excluding current COVID-19 restrictions): All British passport holders need a tourist or business visa to enter Tanzania. Tanzania has introduced an ‘e-visas’ system through which applications can be submitted and approved online in advance of travel. It is no longer possible to get a visa from the Tanzanian High Commission in London. It is also possible to get a tourist or business visa for a single entry on arrival at main ports of entry to Tanzania, subject to the fulfilment of all immigration requirements. You may be asked to provide proof of your return journey. You will not be able to get a multiple entry visa on arrival. For further information about visas visit the Tanzanian immigration website. Your passport should be valid for a minimum period of six months from the date of your visa application.
Malaria risk: Malaria risk is high throughout the year in all areas below 1800m.. Malaria precautions are essential.
Vaccinations: A certificate of yellow fever vaccination is required from travellers aged one year or over arriving from or having transited through countries with risk of yellow fever transmission. Vaccinations against hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid are also recommended, while some travellers may benefit from cholera, hepatitis B, meningococcal disease, rabies and tuberculosis shots.
Power supply: In Tanzania the power plugs and sockets are of type D and G, which is the UK type. The standard voltage is 230 V and the standard frequency is 50 Hz, which are both similar to the UK.
Driving side: Left
Calling code: +255
Airports: Julius Nyerere International Airport (DAR) in Dar es Salaam, Kilimanjaro International Airport (ARK) and Arusha Airport (ARK)
Best time to go: The best time to visit Tanzania is during the dry season, from late June to October, when wildlife viewing is generally at its best. The wildebeest migration in the Serengeti is usually during June and July and the time to see the wildebeest calving is late January to February. The southern and western circuit parks are best visited during the dry season (June to October), unlike the more popular northern circuit parks that can be visited year-round..
Major attractions: Serengeti National Park. Ngorongoro Crater, Ruaha National Park, Selous Game Reserve, Gombe National Park, Katavi National Park, Lake Manyara NP, Tarangire National Park
Animals: Elephant, giraffe, hippo, buffalo, zebra and wildebeest are abundant; lion and hyena are common; leopard and cheetah are occasional; black rhino and wild dog are rare. There are no white rhino.
Birds: 1,100+ species, migratory birds from November to April
Cost: Medium. Assume $450-650 per person per night for four-star comfort, $700-1,200 for four-star luxury and $1,100-1,650 for five-star luxury (2020 prices).
Zambia
Victoria Falls is the obvious reason to go to Zambia (or Zimbabwe), and it made a nice flourish to the end of my Botswana safari in 2016.
I’d been on a helicopter ride over the Iguazú Falls in South America a few months earlier, and I’d enjoyed it so much I thought I’d do the same.
This shot (see above) was one of the ones I took on that trip, but the most exciting part of it was actually when the pilot took me down the rapids in the gorge under the falls. At times, we were only a few feet off the water, and my heart was in my mouth!
My only word of warning is that it’s very hard to avoid reflections if you try to take pictures through the glass window of the cockpit, especially on a sunny day.
I managed to fudge a solution at Iguazú by sitting in the front seat next to a small opening in the glass. If I held on to my camera tightly - and I mean VERY tightly! - I could take pictures out of the window.
After we’d landed at Victoria Falls, the pilot asked me why I was taking so many pictures. When I said I was a professional photographer, he said, “Oh, if you’d told me that before, I would’ve taken the door off for you…!”
If you don’t ask, you don’t get…
I’d tried to arrange things beforehand, but nobody had the authority to make that decision, and I didn’t even think to ask the pilot.
As well as Victoria Falls, Zambia does offer some good wildlife destinations, including South Luangwa, Kafue and Lower Zambezi National Parks.
South Luangwa, in particular, had a great reputation for offering the chance to see lion kills. I think the male lions in that pride have died now, but the South Luangwa lions are exceptional in that they kill elephants. It’s also one of the few places in Africa where you can track lions on a walking safari.
Capital: Lusaka
Currency: Zambian kwacha (ZMW)
Population: 17,351,708 (2019)
Area: 752,618 km² (290,587 sq mi)
Official language(s): English
Time zone: UTC+2 (Central Africa Time)
Entry requirements for UK citizens (excluding current COVID-19 restrictions): British passport holders need a visa to enter Zambia. You can get a visa from the Zambian High Commission in London before you travel. Single and double entry visit visas are available on arrival at all ports of entry, but multi-entry visas are not. If you plan to get a visa on arrival, make sure you have the correct amount of cash (US dollars) as change may not be available. If you enter through Kenneth Kaunda International Airport, you can make payment for single and double entry visas via credit or debit card at the Zambian Immigration desks. You should check your visa endorsement for the period of your stay in Zambia. Although you are allowed 90 days per calendar year, the immigration officer will not normally endorse the full length of time upon entry, and you will be required to extend the stay at the nearest immigration office. For further information about entry requirements, contact the Zambian High Commission in London at info@zambiahc.org.uk or visit Zambia Department of Immigration. The KAZA visa is valid for travel between Zambia and Zimbabwe and day trips into Botswana. It’s available at the international airports in Lusaka and Livingstone and at the land borders at Livingstone (Zimbabwe border) and Kazungula (Botswana border). It costs US$50 and it is valid for 30 days. On leaving Zambia, all air passengers must pay a departure tax of US$25. This is normally included in the cost of an air ticket, you will be asked to pay separately in Zambian Kwacha if it is not. There is also a Security Charge payable by all departing air passengers. The cost is US$3 per person for domestic flights and US$5 per person for international flights. As above, this is normally included in the cost of an air ticket, but you will be asked to pay separately in Zambian Kwacha if it is not. Your passport should be valid for a minimum period of six months from the date of entry into Zambia and have two blank pages.
Malaria risk: The risk is high throughout the year in all areas. Malaria precautions are essential.
Vaccinations: A certificate of yellow fever vaccination is required from travellers aged one year or over arriving from or having transited through countries with risk of yellow fever transmission. Vaccinations against hepatitis A, polio, tetanus and typhoid are also recommended, while some travellers may benefit from cholera, hepatitis B, rabies and tuberculosis shots.
Power supply: There are three associated plug types, types C, D and G, which is the UK standard. If that is not the type in your hotel, then UK appliances will need an adaptor. Zambia operates on a 230V supply voltage and 50Hz, as in the UK.
Driving side: Left
Calling code: +260
Airports: Kenneth Kaunda International Airport (LUN) in Lusaka, Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport (LVI) in Livingstone (near Victoria Falls)
Best time to go: You have an excellent chance of seeing lots of wildlife in Zambia during the dry season (May to October). This will fit in nicely with a visit to Victoria Falls, which is at its best from June to September. A wet season safari (November to April) is much more challenging as most parks and camps shut down because of heavy rain. The Mfuwe section of South Luangwa NP is an exception: you can drive its all-weather roads year-round.
Major attractions: South Luangwa National Park, Kafue National Park and Lower Zambezi National Park
Animals: Elephant, hippo, buffalo and zebra are abundant; lion, leopard and hyena are common; giraffe and wildebeest are occasional; cheetah and wild dog are rare; black and white rhino are very rare.
Birds: 750+ species, migratory birds from October to April
Cost: High for Zambia, but lower at Victoria Falls. For Zambia as a whole, assume $700-800 per person per night for four-star comfort, $750-1,000 for four-star luxury and $1,200-1,700 for five-star luxury (2020 prices). For Victoria Falls, assume $450-500 per person per night for four-star comfort, $500-750 for four-star luxury and $900-1,550 for five-star luxury (2020 prices).
Sources: Wikipedia, travelhealthpro.org.uk, gov.uk, fitfortravel.nhs.uk, Google, safaribookings.com, go2africa.com, electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk and others
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